Re: Umeomaru make up and costume


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Posted by Paul Griffith (86.134.21.47) on January 19, 2006 at 00:38:55:

In Reply to: Umeomaru make up and costume posted by Emma Haverkamp on January 14, 2006 at 08:10:38:

I believe I may be able to help a little. I am both a collector of Kabuki prints and someone who works with the Kabuki and Bunraku theatres in Tokyo doing translations and commentaries for the plays and dances every month. (I am also a mature student doing a PHD at Oxford on Kabuki theatre history. at the moment.)However, I don't know all the answers!
1). The traditional make-up for Umeomaru is called 'suji-guma' in many cases. However, this may vary according to the scene in which he appears.
2). Sorry, I can't answer the technical questions about the content of make-up, except to say that it has 'modernised' considerably these days and is no longer dangerous. The white 'oshiroi' used to be made from lead, and it quite often led to the premature deaths of actors in the pre-modern period.
3). There is a shop in the basement of the old Kinokuniya building in Shinjuku, Tokyo, where they sell theatrical make-up. It shouldn't be difficult to find places because they still use it today for Kabuki and Japanese traditional dance.
4). You can see a real 'kuruma bin' wig if you attend an appropriate Kabuki play or dance recital! Otherwise, there are a number of good books in Japanese about wigs, and there is one book by Ruth Shaver on costumes and wigs that should be very helpful.
5). The costume for Umeomaru differs depending on the scene in which he appears. The 'Kuruma Biki' scene does indeed feature all three twin brothers in the same costume which is a DYED purple check with black. It is NOT painted onto the cloth. That kind of thick padded costume is known as 'atsuwata' and is also seen, for example, in the costume of Sekibei in 'Seki no To'.
6). 'Sanriate' refers to the narrow leg bands situated just below the knee. The purpose of such bands was to conceal the spots caused by moxa burns. Such treatment was common in the pre-modern period.

I hope I have been of some assistance. If you have other questions then feel free to e-mail me at: . Also, I have co-written a book about Japanese Theatre that includes a lot of the above information, and more! It is 'A Guide to the Japanese Stage' published by Kodansha in 2004. Available at all really good bookstores!!!

Best wishes,

Paul.


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